This excerpt was originally published in Pre Shift, our newsletter for the hospitality industry. Subscribe for more first-person accounts, advice, and interviews. When Chanita Chayaluk decided to open her restaurant and wine bar Taan, she hoped “to showcase Thai food in Chicago in a different light,” she says. “The first [wave of] immigration of Thai people in Chicago was in the 1970s, and a lot of [Thai] food here still feels like it’s from that time.”