Much like a great recipe, it started with a stick of butter. This wasn’t real butter; it was a friend’s new phone grip, complemented by a phone case with bold stripes. Butter is in vogue now, or at least that’s what a 12-year-old told me a few months ago. This stick of butter was labeled “unsalty” and committed to the bit by including the appropriate tablespoon markings, just like the real thing. I was enamored. “Where did you get that?” I asked.